I’ve owned horses all my life, and I’ve tried about every recipe out there.
I have finally decided that whole foods I mix myself are the best.
Yes, I used to feed pellets, and yes, I know they have some advantages, like higher digestibility and (supposedly) more ingredients for less money.
However, after I thought about it, I came to the conclusion that God made horses with inefficient digestive systems, and maybe that’s how it’s supposed to work. Maybe all this messing around with compressing feed into a tiny pellet isn’t good for a horse over the long term. (Also, some horses are more prone to choke when fed pellets, especially if they are the type that “gulp” their feed).
I know there are many varying opinions out there about what to feed, and this is just my opinion, based on my own experiences.
I feed my horses a blend of whole grains I mix myself: oats, barley, and flax. I also add in some beet pulp and some loose minerals. Once a week, I feed a bran mash with some psyllium fiber added in to push all that sand out the back end of my four-legged friends.
I came up with the exact choice of grains based on where I live and what’s available. The whole grains available to you may be different.
I also vary the amounts of the grains I feed by the season. My horses get almost no grain during the summer. They are used only as trail horses and don’t need a lot of extra protein over and above the wonderful grass we have in summer.
In winter, I add some sunflower seeds and a handful of cracked corn to their feed buckets once a day.
Your recipe for your horses will likely vary from mine, depending on where you live, what’s available, how much grazing and grass are available, etc.
The bottom line is, no matter how you decide to “mix it up,” I believe feeding whole grains and supplements you mix yourself trump pellets every time. Not only do I instinctively believe horses weren’t meant to eat pellets, my horses seem to do better on the mixture I’ve come up with myself (fewer colics, fewer strained muscles, etc.).
Thursday, 27 November 2008
Saturday, 15 November 2008
Horse Bits
I’m of the opinion that if you don’t need a bit to control your horse, don’t use one.
Having been trained in dressage for many years, I learned not to rely on the reins and the bit as a means of controlling my horse. Instead, I learned how to stop, start, and turn using mostly my seat and legs.
If you must use a bit, then I suggest using the mildest bit you can that is effective and keeps you safe.
Start with the gentlest bit, a snaffle. Snaffle bits work on the principle of direct pressure. That is, the amount of pressure with which you’re pulling is the amount of pressure the horse will feel. All snaffle bits are broken in the middle, and there are many varieties. I like the D-ring or the egg butt snaffle myself. The fatter the bit, the gentler it will be on the horse’s mouth.
The most severe bits are unbroken, and these also come in many varieties, but they all work on the principle of leverage. The pressure on the horse’s mouth is greater than the pressure with which you are pulling. The ratio of how much the pressure increases depends on the type of bit you are using. However, you can see how it would be easy to over-pull on your horse’s mouth, especially if you are a novice rider and depend heavily on the bit and reins to maintain your seat and control of the horse. I don’t recommend these kinds of bits unless there is a very compelling reason to use them.
Whatever type of bit you choose, you need to make sure it fits your horse’s mouth properly. If a bit is too small or too large, it can cause all kinds of problems and pain for your horse.
If you’re like me, you won’t use a bit at all, but instead a bit-less bridle known as a hackamore. These bridles put pressure on certain parts of a horse’s nose when you pull on the reins. Critics of the hackamore say it can be just as harsh and painful for the horse as a severe bit, and I suppose there are some hackamores and some riders that in combination, would make this a true statement. However, with a little practice and some training, I believe the hackamore is gentler than using a bit.
There are several varieties of hackamore bridles, and just like a bit, you need to make sure your hackamore is fitted correctly for your horse. In the end, you must do what is the safest and best thing for you and your horse. You should consider both your level of training and the horse’s, and if you’re still in doubt as to what to do, seek advice from a professional trainer
Having been trained in dressage for many years, I learned not to rely on the reins and the bit as a means of controlling my horse. Instead, I learned how to stop, start, and turn using mostly my seat and legs.
If you must use a bit, then I suggest using the mildest bit you can that is effective and keeps you safe.
Start with the gentlest bit, a snaffle. Snaffle bits work on the principle of direct pressure. That is, the amount of pressure with which you’re pulling is the amount of pressure the horse will feel. All snaffle bits are broken in the middle, and there are many varieties. I like the D-ring or the egg butt snaffle myself. The fatter the bit, the gentler it will be on the horse’s mouth.
The most severe bits are unbroken, and these also come in many varieties, but they all work on the principle of leverage. The pressure on the horse’s mouth is greater than the pressure with which you are pulling. The ratio of how much the pressure increases depends on the type of bit you are using. However, you can see how it would be easy to over-pull on your horse’s mouth, especially if you are a novice rider and depend heavily on the bit and reins to maintain your seat and control of the horse. I don’t recommend these kinds of bits unless there is a very compelling reason to use them.
Whatever type of bit you choose, you need to make sure it fits your horse’s mouth properly. If a bit is too small or too large, it can cause all kinds of problems and pain for your horse.
If you’re like me, you won’t use a bit at all, but instead a bit-less bridle known as a hackamore. These bridles put pressure on certain parts of a horse’s nose when you pull on the reins. Critics of the hackamore say it can be just as harsh and painful for the horse as a severe bit, and I suppose there are some hackamores and some riders that in combination, would make this a true statement. However, with a little practice and some training, I believe the hackamore is gentler than using a bit.
There are several varieties of hackamore bridles, and just like a bit, you need to make sure your hackamore is fitted correctly for your horse. In the end, you must do what is the safest and best thing for you and your horse. You should consider both your level of training and the horse’s, and if you’re still in doubt as to what to do, seek advice from a professional trainer
Monday, 10 November 2008
Quarter Horses- versatile
If you’re looking for a horse that can do it all, I highly recommend the Quarter horse.
My first horse was a grade buckskin Quarter horse mare I called (quite un-uniquely, I’m afraid) “Star.” Star was 16 years old and pregnant when she came to live with me. I knew almost nothing about horses, and so I rode her almost up until the day she delivered her foal. Luckily, I was very young and thin as a rail. Plus, knowing as little as I did, I mostly walked her around the pasture bareback using a halter and lead ropes as a bridle.
Star taught me far more than I taught her, that’s for sure. She was a typical Quarter horse: willing, bold, and able to do anything I asked of her.
She was an excellent trail horse, and after she delivered her foal, I started taking serious dressage lessons using her as my lesson horse. I don’t know if she had ever been trained in dressage. Chances are she had not, since I bought her at 16 years old from a pretty old-fashioned cattleman. However, you’d never know it. She picked right up on everything I was learning as quickly as I did. She learned flying changes, pirouettes, and how to bend flowingly around my leg. She was amazing.
When I wanted to take up jumping, Star was game for that, too. She took me through my first few Three-Day Events, and we always won a ribbon (even a blue one occasionally!).
Star passed away on Christmas Eve at the age of 23 from complications from heaves (emphysema). She’d had heaves when I bought her, and the cowboy who sold her to me was honest about it, but I didn’t know what that was and didn’t care. It didn’t affect Star in any serious way until the last year of her life in any case.
Since Star, I have owned several more Quarter horses, and have loved each and every one.
Whether you ride English or Western, want to show and compete or just want to trail ride, the Quarter horse is an excellent breed to consider if you want a horse that can do it all.
My first horse was a grade buckskin Quarter horse mare I called (quite un-uniquely, I’m afraid) “Star.” Star was 16 years old and pregnant when she came to live with me. I knew almost nothing about horses, and so I rode her almost up until the day she delivered her foal. Luckily, I was very young and thin as a rail. Plus, knowing as little as I did, I mostly walked her around the pasture bareback using a halter and lead ropes as a bridle.
Star taught me far more than I taught her, that’s for sure. She was a typical Quarter horse: willing, bold, and able to do anything I asked of her.
She was an excellent trail horse, and after she delivered her foal, I started taking serious dressage lessons using her as my lesson horse. I don’t know if she had ever been trained in dressage. Chances are she had not, since I bought her at 16 years old from a pretty old-fashioned cattleman. However, you’d never know it. She picked right up on everything I was learning as quickly as I did. She learned flying changes, pirouettes, and how to bend flowingly around my leg. She was amazing.
When I wanted to take up jumping, Star was game for that, too. She took me through my first few Three-Day Events, and we always won a ribbon (even a blue one occasionally!).
Star passed away on Christmas Eve at the age of 23 from complications from heaves (emphysema). She’d had heaves when I bought her, and the cowboy who sold her to me was honest about it, but I didn’t know what that was and didn’t care. It didn’t affect Star in any serious way until the last year of her life in any case.
Since Star, I have owned several more Quarter horses, and have loved each and every one.
Whether you ride English or Western, want to show and compete or just want to trail ride, the Quarter horse is an excellent breed to consider if you want a horse that can do it all.
Thursday, 6 November 2008
Colic
If you’ve owned a horse, then chances are, you know about colic.
Colic is a term used to describe abdominal pain that can be caused by a wide variety of gastro-intestinal problems in horses, from the very minor to the life-threatening.
The symptoms of colic are many, but generally include one or more of the following: restlessness, elevated temperature, personality changes, snorting, nipping at the sides, laying down and not wanting to get up, and rolling in a thrashing manner. .
So, when you should call the vet?
Well, there is no easy answer to this question. The safe answer is, if you have any doubt about the seriousness of the illness, call the vet.
However, there are some cases where a minor colic (caused by a change in the weather, an irregular feeding schedule that leads to an upset stomach, etc.) will eventually resolve itself.
For example, when the weather turns cold each year, there is one horse I own that I know is going to colic on that first chilly night. She lies down and won’t get up for several hours. She looks listless, and occasionally bites at her sides. But she doesn’t thrash around in agony, and her temperature stays normal. Sometimes I will give her a little banamine (orally, not injected), sometimes I won’t, depending on how she looks.
With this kind of colic, my vet has told me to let the horse be. As long as she’s not thrashing around, but just lying there quietly and not trying to hurt herself, allow her to stay down on the ground. It is not necessary to force her up and walk her around (which was how I was taught to deal with all colics when I was a kid).
That all being said, if this is your horse’s first colic, you are new to the world of horses, your horse’s eyes are rolling back in his head, your horse gets up and down over and over, or when he’s down he’s thrashing around, you need to call your vet and get some professional advice.
Colic is a term used to describe abdominal pain that can be caused by a wide variety of gastro-intestinal problems in horses, from the very minor to the life-threatening.
The symptoms of colic are many, but generally include one or more of the following: restlessness, elevated temperature, personality changes, snorting, nipping at the sides, laying down and not wanting to get up, and rolling in a thrashing manner. .
So, when you should call the vet?
Well, there is no easy answer to this question. The safe answer is, if you have any doubt about the seriousness of the illness, call the vet.
However, there are some cases where a minor colic (caused by a change in the weather, an irregular feeding schedule that leads to an upset stomach, etc.) will eventually resolve itself.
For example, when the weather turns cold each year, there is one horse I own that I know is going to colic on that first chilly night. She lies down and won’t get up for several hours. She looks listless, and occasionally bites at her sides. But she doesn’t thrash around in agony, and her temperature stays normal. Sometimes I will give her a little banamine (orally, not injected), sometimes I won’t, depending on how she looks.
With this kind of colic, my vet has told me to let the horse be. As long as she’s not thrashing around, but just lying there quietly and not trying to hurt herself, allow her to stay down on the ground. It is not necessary to force her up and walk her around (which was how I was taught to deal with all colics when I was a kid).
That all being said, if this is your horse’s first colic, you are new to the world of horses, your horse’s eyes are rolling back in his head, your horse gets up and down over and over, or when he’s down he’s thrashing around, you need to call your vet and get some professional advice.
Colic In Horses - The ULTIMATE Horse Site
Hello All, I found this article while searching the web and thought I would share it with you all. Please let me know what you think.
Colic In Horses - The ULTIMATE Horse Site: "Colic What It Is
A term used to describe a large range of abdominal discomforts, colic can be anything from a twisted intestine to an enterolith to worm infestations. Colic is the #1 natural killer of horses."
Colic In Horses - The ULTIMATE Horse Site: "Colic What It Is
A term used to describe a large range of abdominal discomforts, colic can be anything from a twisted intestine to an enterolith to worm infestations. Colic is the #1 natural killer of horses."
Wednesday, 5 November 2008
Bonding with your horse
I have owned horses all my life, and one thing I know for sure is that bonding with your horse is a critical first step in training. Of all the foals I have ever brought under saddle, the ones where getting on the horse for the first time was essentially a “non-event” were the ones I took to time to bond with first. Even most older horses, like rescues or a horse that was trained improperly, can be re-trained if you are willing to take the time to bond with the animal first.
So, how does one go about bonding with a horse? Well, I can narrow it down to three “easy” (tongue-in-cheek) steps.
Before I begin, there is a caveat. You should know that there are lots and lots of ways to do this, and everyone out there will have a different training method and a different opinion on what’s best.
Step One
Myself, I like the methods that are based on the principles of natural horsemanship. Step one, then, is largely about adopting a particular attitude. That is, you start by putting yourself in your horse’s shoes (no pun intended), and try to see him through the eye of another horse. Brush up on your natural horsemanship and get familiar with its precepts and basic ideas.
Step Two
Next, you need to just accept that this is not an overnight process and you will not be getting on your horse’s back right away. Like anything worth doing, bonding with your horse and forming a strong relationship based on absolute trust takes time, and lots of it. In my own experience, I have found that spending lots of time working on ground manners (six months or more) makes getting in the saddle much easier. A horse who minds you on the ground will be more likely to mind you when you’re riding him.
Step Three
Finally, you need to set a schedule of time with your horse that is predictable, consistent, and graduated. Horses love their routines, and if you establish a regular one of time with your horse, he will come to expect it and even look forward to it. Once you have an established routine, you can throw in the occasional deviation from it and your horse will be able to take it in stride because he trusts you. By “graduated,” I mean that you should introduce new things slowly, in small steps, so that each step is not only painless, but actually pleasant for both of you. Remember, horses don’t see degrees of danger. To them, everything is life and death. You must get to the point where your horse believes that when he is presented with something new, his “fight or flight” reaction will be trumped by his trust in you.
So, how does one go about bonding with a horse? Well, I can narrow it down to three “easy” (tongue-in-cheek) steps.
Before I begin, there is a caveat. You should know that there are lots and lots of ways to do this, and everyone out there will have a different training method and a different opinion on what’s best.
Step One
Myself, I like the methods that are based on the principles of natural horsemanship. Step one, then, is largely about adopting a particular attitude. That is, you start by putting yourself in your horse’s shoes (no pun intended), and try to see him through the eye of another horse. Brush up on your natural horsemanship and get familiar with its precepts and basic ideas.
Step Two
Next, you need to just accept that this is not an overnight process and you will not be getting on your horse’s back right away. Like anything worth doing, bonding with your horse and forming a strong relationship based on absolute trust takes time, and lots of it. In my own experience, I have found that spending lots of time working on ground manners (six months or more) makes getting in the saddle much easier. A horse who minds you on the ground will be more likely to mind you when you’re riding him.
Step Three
Finally, you need to set a schedule of time with your horse that is predictable, consistent, and graduated. Horses love their routines, and if you establish a regular one of time with your horse, he will come to expect it and even look forward to it. Once you have an established routine, you can throw in the occasional deviation from it and your horse will be able to take it in stride because he trusts you. By “graduated,” I mean that you should introduce new things slowly, in small steps, so that each step is not only painless, but actually pleasant for both of you. Remember, horses don’t see degrees of danger. To them, everything is life and death. You must get to the point where your horse believes that when he is presented with something new, his “fight or flight” reaction will be trumped by his trust in you.
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Fox Hunting
As a child, I was a member of a local fox hunting club. I was only 12, and joined up because at the time, I would have taken any opportunity offered to me that allowed me to do more riding.
I didn’t know it back then, but our hunt club was a “no-kill” organization that used the “drag” method of hunting. Literally, synthetic fox scent was “dragged” across the hunting lands in such a way as to yield as safe but exhilarating gallop for the hunt club members. No actual fox was hunted or killed.
Like I said, I was a kid and really didn’t understand the whole thing. All I knew was it was an incredibly fun way for me to spend my Saturday mornings. Plus, I got to dress up in my formal hunting attire, and put my best tack on my pony. All in all, I have amazing memories of those years.
As an adult, I learned about “real” fox hunting. I learned about its history – that at one time it was considered a legitimate way of ridding a farm of vermin. I also learned about some of the more barbaric practices that came with the capture and killing of a real fox. Take “blooding,” for example, where the first people on the scene paint their faces with fresh fox blood. Or the practice of giving away the fox’s body parts (some parts to the ladies, some for the gents). Pretty icky stuff.
I’m no bleeding heart, but I do believe we were put here to be good stewards of this earth, and that includes treating our animals friends with kindness and mercy. I don’t look down on people who must hunt animals for food. But, I do believe if that is what you must do, it should be done in a way so that the animal does not suffer.
I don’t believe there is a good argument that can be made today for “real” fox hunting. It is something people are doing only for pleasure, and it’s just not right.
I didn’t know it back then, but our hunt club was a “no-kill” organization that used the “drag” method of hunting. Literally, synthetic fox scent was “dragged” across the hunting lands in such a way as to yield as safe but exhilarating gallop for the hunt club members. No actual fox was hunted or killed.
Like I said, I was a kid and really didn’t understand the whole thing. All I knew was it was an incredibly fun way for me to spend my Saturday mornings. Plus, I got to dress up in my formal hunting attire, and put my best tack on my pony. All in all, I have amazing memories of those years.
As an adult, I learned about “real” fox hunting. I learned about its history – that at one time it was considered a legitimate way of ridding a farm of vermin. I also learned about some of the more barbaric practices that came with the capture and killing of a real fox. Take “blooding,” for example, where the first people on the scene paint their faces with fresh fox blood. Or the practice of giving away the fox’s body parts (some parts to the ladies, some for the gents). Pretty icky stuff.
I’m no bleeding heart, but I do believe we were put here to be good stewards of this earth, and that includes treating our animals friends with kindness and mercy. I don’t look down on people who must hunt animals for food. But, I do believe if that is what you must do, it should be done in a way so that the animal does not suffer.
I don’t believe there is a good argument that can be made today for “real” fox hunting. It is something people are doing only for pleasure, and it’s just not right.
Wednesday, 29 October 2008
Fear of Fly Spray
Once I adopted a little Paso mare who was terrified of fly spray. It took me by surprise, her reaction, since it all happened so fast. She was in cross-ties, and had been standing there quietly while I groomed her and picked out her feet. No problem. Then, I mixed up some fly spray and when the first drop hit her, she went straight up in the air (almost going over backward!). It scared us both to death!
I’ve owned horses all my life, and I’ve seen fear of just about everything: hoses, fallen trees, an overturned garbage can, water, cows and other livestock (like llamas), and sometimes what seemed to be nothing at all. At 33 years old, this was my first horse who was terrified of fly spray.
However, after the little mare – Izzy – and I calmed down, I decided to tackle this fear like I would any other fear: with patience and desensitization.
Patience
I took a deep breath and decided I wasn’t going to try to overcome Izzy’s fear in one day. Since I am impatient and a “go-getter” by nature, believe me, this step is very important. I had to mentally accept that this was going to take time.
Desensitization
I consulted with my sister-in-law (a natural horsemanship expert), and she suggested the following:
1. Fill a fly spray bottle with plain water.
2. Put Izzy on a lunge line where she would be free to run for a few feet.
3. Let Izzy graze and get comfortable.
4. Keep your head down and don’t look her in the eye. Keep your shoulders relaxed and stand so you’re facing her sideways.
5.Start with small sprays of water on the ground near Izzy’s feet. Do this until she doesn’t jump or run away from the water. This could take several sessions. BE PATIENT.
6. Slowly work your way up to spraying Izzy directly with the water. Start with her feet and work up her body.
7. Keep sessions to about 15 to 20 minutes at a time.
Eventually I was able to fly spray Izzy without a problem. It took a total of three weeks.It’s important to remember, when following the above steps, to end each session on a good note. If your horse starts out by running away for five feet, stop the session when you’ve got it down to one or two feet. Give her a treat and talk softly to her. Horses are creatures of habit and association. If your horse associates these sessions with pleasant memories, she will be more cooperative every time you try
I’ve owned horses all my life, and I’ve seen fear of just about everything: hoses, fallen trees, an overturned garbage can, water, cows and other livestock (like llamas), and sometimes what seemed to be nothing at all. At 33 years old, this was my first horse who was terrified of fly spray.
However, after the little mare – Izzy – and I calmed down, I decided to tackle this fear like I would any other fear: with patience and desensitization.
Patience
I took a deep breath and decided I wasn’t going to try to overcome Izzy’s fear in one day. Since I am impatient and a “go-getter” by nature, believe me, this step is very important. I had to mentally accept that this was going to take time.
Desensitization
I consulted with my sister-in-law (a natural horsemanship expert), and she suggested the following:
1. Fill a fly spray bottle with plain water.
2. Put Izzy on a lunge line where she would be free to run for a few feet.
3. Let Izzy graze and get comfortable.
4. Keep your head down and don’t look her in the eye. Keep your shoulders relaxed and stand so you’re facing her sideways.
5.Start with small sprays of water on the ground near Izzy’s feet. Do this until she doesn’t jump or run away from the water. This could take several sessions. BE PATIENT.
6. Slowly work your way up to spraying Izzy directly with the water. Start with her feet and work up her body.
7. Keep sessions to about 15 to 20 minutes at a time.
Eventually I was able to fly spray Izzy without a problem. It took a total of three weeks.It’s important to remember, when following the above steps, to end each session on a good note. If your horse starts out by running away for five feet, stop the session when you’ve got it down to one or two feet. Give her a treat and talk softly to her. Horses are creatures of habit and association. If your horse associates these sessions with pleasant memories, she will be more cooperative every time you try
Wednesday, 10 September 2008
Horse: Tool Or Friend?
Horses Friend or Tool?
A question and a half I know but I do wonder! I have a friend with a horse who has no idea what her horses fears or dislikes are; if your horse disagrees with her or fears something poor thing just gets the whip! I mean how would she like it if I whipped her to get her started on her work? Pretty sure she would not. All she worries is about is trophies & ribbons.
My horse is my partner I know he does not like jumping, garlic, muddy puddles etc I also know he loves food & enjoys going on long rides through the forest & going to new places.
I bought my horse to enjoy not because he looks good (which he does). I understand if you want to jump then you need a horse to have the ability but should horses be bought for their colour, conformation, pedigree etc I mean seriously I know so many people that have these top show jumpers (competition horses) that weave, crib, wind suck etc this is not healthy these are man made conditions. We insist on our horse being perfectly turned out. They cant be horses, “can’t go out & get muddy”, “oh no he is going to scar, I will just keep him in or put him in a field on his own” a herd animal on heir own hmmmm and you wonder why horses go mad!
Think about it seriously, people get rid of horses that when they bought them they were fine, after a few months with them the horse turn in a psychotic beast & then have the mordacity to get rid of the horse & say there was something wrong with it! Lets see……….. Ever thought the person was the problem not the horse!
For the record I’m not talking about everyone I just want to get my point across
A question and a half I know but I do wonder! I have a friend with a horse who has no idea what her horses fears or dislikes are; if your horse disagrees with her or fears something poor thing just gets the whip! I mean how would she like it if I whipped her to get her started on her work? Pretty sure she would not. All she worries is about is trophies & ribbons.
My horse is my partner I know he does not like jumping, garlic, muddy puddles etc I also know he loves food & enjoys going on long rides through the forest & going to new places.
I bought my horse to enjoy not because he looks good (which he does). I understand if you want to jump then you need a horse to have the ability but should horses be bought for their colour, conformation, pedigree etc I mean seriously I know so many people that have these top show jumpers (competition horses) that weave, crib, wind suck etc this is not healthy these are man made conditions. We insist on our horse being perfectly turned out. They cant be horses, “can’t go out & get muddy”, “oh no he is going to scar, I will just keep him in or put him in a field on his own” a herd animal on heir own hmmmm and you wonder why horses go mad!
Think about it seriously, people get rid of horses that when they bought them they were fine, after a few months with them the horse turn in a psychotic beast & then have the mordacity to get rid of the horse & say there was something wrong with it! Lets see……….. Ever thought the person was the problem not the horse!
For the record I’m not talking about everyone I just want to get my point across
Friday, 29 August 2008
Today's Horse - Problem Sovling: Loading Your Horse
Hi there,
I found this article on loading horses and thought you might be interested, give me some feed back.
Today's Horse - Problem Sovling: Loading Your Horse: "A day out with your horse can be perfect bliss - or a nerve racking, emotionally draining, confidence shattering, traumatic disaster, and it often depends on how your horse loads!"
I found this article on loading horses and thought you might be interested, give me some feed back.
Today's Horse - Problem Sovling: Loading Your Horse: "A day out with your horse can be perfect bliss - or a nerve racking, emotionally draining, confidence shattering, traumatic disaster, and it often depends on how your horse loads!"
Horse Training
My name is Anita, I am a horse lover and I spent most of my free time with my horses.
There are so many different way to go about training a horse, that it’s become more difficult for people to know really where to start.
With that in mind people should really consider doing more research on the many different ways they could go, when it comes to training their horse.
Providing that one gets a really good understanding of horses and where they are coming from; that should in-able individual to make informative choice.
Reading and researching the subject i.e. the Horse should enable people to make informative choices. It is the responsibility of “The” would be horse owners to gather up as much information as possible about the type of horse they wish to own.
Some horses are just not suitable for beginners but there are other that are more suited for them.
Common mistakes that owner makes is getting the wrong type of horse for the work that they require the horse to do, for instance you would not get a Draft Horse if you wanted to jump.
Secondly individuals do not do enough research on what it really cost to own a horse. And that it requires more commitment than first anticipated. You can’t just go of on holiday without making arrangement for their horse.
The realisation is that much of your time is devoted to the care of the horse and what a great responsibility it really is to take care of the flight animal.
There is so much information out there that it can be overwhelming and people just don’t really understand what to do with it.
There are so many different way to go about training a horse, that it’s become more difficult for people to know really where to start.
With that in mind people should really consider doing more research on the many different ways they could go, when it comes to training their horse.
Providing that one gets a really good understanding of horses and where they are coming from; that should in-able individual to make informative choice.
Reading and researching the subject i.e. the Horse should enable people to make informative choices. It is the responsibility of “The” would be horse owners to gather up as much information as possible about the type of horse they wish to own.
Some horses are just not suitable for beginners but there are other that are more suited for them.
Common mistakes that owner makes is getting the wrong type of horse for the work that they require the horse to do, for instance you would not get a Draft Horse if you wanted to jump.
Secondly individuals do not do enough research on what it really cost to own a horse. And that it requires more commitment than first anticipated. You can’t just go of on holiday without making arrangement for their horse.
The realisation is that much of your time is devoted to the care of the horse and what a great responsibility it really is to take care of the flight animal.
There is so much information out there that it can be overwhelming and people just don’t really understand what to do with it.
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